Ranking ‘sustainable’ fabrics

5 minutes

Some tips to help you understand if that t-shirt you’re buying is made with sustainable fabrics.

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Here’s a fun (and scary) fact - the fashion industry is consistently ranked by scientists as one of the most polluting industries. But things are changing, as more brands are beginning to holistically assess the impact that their supply chains have on the environment, from the raw materials used, to how their garments are manufactured, to how they are packaged and delivered.

Today, we’ll examine the best (and worst) raw materials that are used to create the garments you love. Our ratings for each material is based on the following criteria:

  • Fibre Source: Is it man-made or naturally occurring? Is it biodegradable?

  • Resource Usage: How much water, energy, and land does it require to create the fibre? Does the fibre require treatment with harmful chemicals in its creation?

  • Carbon Footprint: What is the carbon implication of creating the fibre?

  • Longevity: Does the fibre last? Can it be recycled into new products at end-of-life?

TENCEL

Score - 4.5/5

The Good

  • Made entirely from naturally occurring fibres (wood fibres)
  • Usually wood fibres are sustainably sourced
  • Minimal water usage in comparison to cotton
  • Biodegradable
  • Relatively soft

The Not So Great

  • Chemical processing is needed in order to create the fabric from wood fibres
  • This processing, however, usually is closed-loop, and the chemicals can be reused

Where You Can Buy

tentree, MATE The Label, Frank And Oak, Boyish

ORGANIC COTTON

Score - 4.5/5

The Good

  • Made entirely from naturally occurring fibres (cotton)
  • 100% biodegradable
  • No pesticides or chemicals are used
  • Cozy and feels great

The Not So Great

  • Can require a lot of water
  • Expensive

Where You Can Buy

KOTN, mini mioche, MATE The Label, tentree, Frank And Oak, Boyish

LINEN

Score - 4/5

The Good

  • Made entirely from naturally occurring fibres
  • 100% biodegradable
  • Does not require the use of pesticides or chemicals
  • Lightweight and breathable fabric

The Not So Great

  • Uses a lot of water to grow the raw material
  • Sometimes cannot be machine washable

Where You Can Buy

Uncle Studios, MATE The Label

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RECYCLED POLYESTER

Score - 3/5

The Good

  • Made entirely from recycled plastics
  • Can give end-of-life plastic products like water bottles a new life
  • High performance and long-lasting material
  • Uses less energy to produce than virgin polyester products
  • Requires minimal water to produce

The Not So Great

  • Non-biodegradable
  • Not a naturally occurring fibre
  • Manufacturing process produces a fair amount of greenhouse gas emissions

Where You Can Buy

tentree, Bather, Lezé The Label, LONDRE, Saltwater Collective, Norden

POLYESTER

Score - 1/5

The Good

  • Requires minimal water to produce
  • Long lasting, high-performance, and versatile fabric
  • Cheap

The Not So Great

  • Non-biodegradable
  • Not a naturally occurring fibre
  • Manufacturing process produces a large amount of greenhouse gas emissions
  • Oil must be extracted from the Earth to produce the fibre
  • Often requires toxic chemicals during manufacturing

NYLON

Score - 1/5

The Good

  • Requires minimal water to produce
  • Long lasting, high-performance, and versatile fabric
  • Cheap

The Not So Great

  • Non-biodegradable
  • Not a naturally occurring fibre
  • Manufacturing process produces a large amount of greenhouse gas emissions
  • Oil must be extracted from the Earth to produce the fibre
  • Often requires toxic chemicals during manufacturing
  • Often requires acid drying
  • Creates nitrous oxide (a potent greenhouse gas)

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